James Beard: the Dean of Chef Majolica Collectors

James Beard

Say the name James Beard to most people under 40 and you’re likely to get a blank stare. That’s a shame. In the last half of the 20th century James Beard was one of a small group of influential writers who transformed the way people thought about American cuisine.

Born in Oregon in 1903 Beard began his education at Reed College. After being expelled from college for his open homosexuality he moved to New York and began to seek work as an actor. Things being what they were during the depression he found it difficult supporting himself with his acting work, so with a friend he began a catering company, Hors D’Oeuvre Inc., to capitalize on the growing NY social scene. In 1940, Beard began his career as a food writer publishing his first cookbook, Hors D’Oeuvre and Canapés based on his catering experience. After a stint in the United Seamen's Service, Beard used his minor celebrity as a caterer to create his own TV show I Love to Eat in 1946, the first national television cooking program. He soon developed a reputation as a specialist in American food. In 1955 he opened the James Beard School.

James Beard c. 1930

Beard's first book Hors D’Oeuvre and Canapés

Beard on the set of his TV show "I Love to Eat"

Through the 50s, 60s and 70s he became a fixture in American pop culture. Besides being a champion of American comfort food he believed in using the freshest ingredients and newest methods of food preparation. He was the first serious chef to advocate the use of the food processor and pioneered the farm-to-table movement. In 1981 he helped establish City Meals on Wheels to feed the homeless and housebound elderly in NYC. Regular appearances on television and in magazines as well as more than 20 new cookbooks kept him in the public eye until the 80s when his health began to fail him. He died in 1985 in his home in Greenwich Village of congestive heart failure. By the time of his death he was known as the Dean of American Cookery. In his will he directed that his belongings be sold and the proceeds donated to Reed College, the college that expelled him 60 years earlier.

When his belongings came to auction at Doyle galleries, Beard's collection of decorative arts became a sensation. Among these was a large collection of English, Portuguese and American majolica. This came as no surprise to his friends who were often treated to elaborate meals in his home. It also came as no surprise to readers of his cookbooks. In 1965 Beard published Menus For Entertaining which featured some of his majolica in the photos. On the cover he displayed two of his game terrines. Inside he had a full set of Wedgwood dessert wares and some of his palissy pieces.

Cover of Beard's 1965 book Menus for Entertaining

An image from the cookbook showing a Wedgwood desert set

In total 60 lots of majolica were sent to auction.

Doyle catalog of the Beard estate

Page from catalog showing a Holdcroft dolphin compote PHOTO:Doyle

Wedgwood strawberry pieces and English corn pieces  PHOTO:Doyle

English majolica pieces  PHOTO:Doyle

Three Majolica Palissy pieces sold for $3100  PHOTO:Doyle

Minton game terrine from the cookbook cover sold for $350  PHOTO: Doyle

This continental corn tureen brought the highest price for a
single piece of majolica at the auction–$4000  PHOTO:  Doyle

Beard had two partial Wedgwood dessert services with dolphin
stands–one with shells another with reticulated borders

Among the lots was a set of eight Minton fish plates which sold for $3500

A pair of Sarreguemines dolphin vases sold for $1700

Also included were a fish platter for $2100; a pair of garden seats, $2300; and a Minton tiered oyster server, $1800.

Julia Child and James Beard.

After his death, good friend Julia Child felt it was important to maintain Beard's legacy. The James Beard Foundation was founded by Child and teacher Peter Kump, founder of the New York Cooking School, in Beard's 12th Street Greenwich Village home. Its mission is to honor chefs and restaurants who advance the celebration of American cuisine. To win a James Beard award is one of the most prestiges honors in the culinary world. The foundation also sponsors scholarships and hosts charity dinners for members who can eat at the James Beard house.

The James Beard House

In retrospect it's easy to see what a strong influence he had in the development and presentation of contemporary food. Without James Beard there would have never been a Julia Child. Without Julia Child there would never have been a Martha Stewart. Without Martha Stewart there would never have been an entire industry of home caterers, party planners and TV food personalities. His influence reaches far and wide even today, 34 years after his passing.